The Wicked Witch is a sewing pattern for a vintage inspired fit and flare dress. It features a lined bodice, bateau neckline with a v-back, centre back zipper closure, half sleeves, and an A-line skirt with in-seam pockets. The pattern is available in sizes XS-XL (bust sizes 33-44”).
Fair warning: this is not a pattern for beginners!
I’m not offering any tutorials or sewing lessons with this project, and as a result, the instructions are a little sparse in places. I assume that you already know how to install a zipper, finish a hem, under stitch, etc; this is merely a run-through on the order of steps I take to make this dress. And of course, there are multiple methods that can be used in constructing a garment, so feel free to use whichever method you like best.
Seam allowance is included in pattern but not marked. Unless specified, the seam allowance is ½”.
*2-2 1/2yds fabric, depending on your size and the width of the fabric you’re using (I provide layout suggestions for 45” and 60” fabric widths)
*1/2yd lining fabric
*Sewing Machine and Serger (you can get away with using just a sewing machine with a zig zag stitch on the raw edges, but a serger will do such a nice job of finishing those seams!)
XS fits bust 32-33”
S fits bust 35-36”
M fits bust 37-38”
L fits bust 40-41”
XL fits bust 43-44”
Let’s get started!
Print up page 3 of your pattern, which features your test square, which should measure 4″ x 4″. If the measurements are correct, go ahead and print the sewing pattern PDF. If the measurements on the test square don’t add up to 4″ x 4″ then you have to adjust your printer settings before printing the pattern.
Once your pattern is printed, lay out your pages so that the circles near the edges of the pages align. It should look like actual sewing pattern pieces when you do that:
Once your pattern pieces are all cut out and ready to go, lay them out on the fabric using the following guidelines for 60” and 45” fabrics, respectively.
45” width fabric layout (picture included in purchased pattern instructions):
Let’s prep the sleeves!
Starting with your longest basting stitch, baste the shoulder cap of each sleeve between the notches, and gather it to reduce length by 1”. Even out the gathers and press (there should be minimal to no ruching).
You’ll see in the picture that I also like to press a ½” guide along the sleeve’s hem to help me later on when I double fold and sew down that hem!
With right sides facing, pin, sew and serge the sleeve arms, pressing the seam allowances towards the sleeve fronts.
Double fold and sew the hems.
Now, with right sides facing, pin and sew your bodice front upper piece to your bodice front lower piece at the horizontal princess seam, matching notches, matching side seam edges, and easing curves to fit.
Top stitch the princess seam with the seam allowance pointing downward toward the waist line.
Repeat with lining bodice front, except you’ll top stitch the princess seam so that it points upward instead (not necessary, but it reduces bulk at the seam line).
With right sides facing, sew darts on back bodice pieces.
For the outer fabric, press darts towards centre back.
For the lining fabric, press darts toward side seam.
With right sides facing, sew front bodice to back at the shoulder and side seams. Press seams open, and repeat with bodice lining.
With right sides facing, using a ¼” seam allowance, sew outer fabric to lining along the neckline, starting at the centre back at one side, and finishing at the centre back on the other side.
Clip notches around the curved bits of the seam allowance, and unfold the lining from the outer fabric.
Under stitch the seam allowance onto the lining, 1/8” from the seam. Press.
With right sides facing, pin, sew, and serge the sleeve to the bodice armhole, matching the sleeve’s seam allowance to the bodice side seam (and making sure that the lining and outer side seams also match up!).
The sleeve notches should line up with the notches on the bodice armhole. If they don’t, just ease the sleeve around the armhole to fit.
For the complete set of instructions, and to purchase the pattern for yourself, please head over to Etsy or Makerist: